Jac’s Journey

I knew it was time to leave South Island, but still couldn’t fully accept it. Ace Rentals were expecting me to turn up with my car at some point, but I considered a quick call to extend by a day or two.

‘I could just take a quick swing by Marlborough wine country. They make really nice wine there. Or maybe walk the Queen Charlotte track?’

‘Not on your nelly’, replied my legs.

I did as I was told and bid a sad farewell to my trusty hire car at Picton and caught the ferry across to Wellington. I’m told this is a beautiful crossing, but it was dark, so I didn’t get to see anything. Well, apart from witnessing a ferry full of Kiwis watching the All Blacks play the Wallabies at Rugby, and win.

Faithful South Island Hire Car

Arriving into Wellington, I pitched up at the YHA and ended up joining a group of girls down on a wild weekend from their home near Hastings. Great fun.

Wellington has a strong arts scene sitting alongside the politicians and bureaucrats. A good arts scene needs good cafes and great nightlife and Wellington has plenty of both; lots of innovative and unique little places; a real delight to explore around funky Cuba Mall and Courtenay Place.

I took in the top attractions of a trip to Kelburn on the red cable car, with its great views across the harbour, strolled around the city and visited Te Papa, the flagship New Zealand museum.

But my feet were itchy and I quickly collected my new hire car and headed north.

Wellington

I was looking forward to Taupo, a town on the banks of the biggest lake in the southern hemisphere, and the jumping off point for the Tongariro Crossing, an 8-hour alpine trek dubbed New Zealand’s finest day walk. But it’s winter, and mountains don’t really care that I’m waiting for a nice day to get up there, so they do their usual; draw cloaks of clouds around themselves, invite the winds from the four corners, pile their snow and ice deep, and the guided walk, complete with crampons and ice axe, was cancelled due to bad weather every day I was in Taupo.

While waiting around to do the Tongariro Crossing I explored Taupo and surrounds, and my favourite thing by far was Orakei Korako. This has been described as the best thermal area left in New Zealand and it was a delight. I thoroughly enjoyed walking through the park, steam pouring from holes in the earth and from pools of bubbling and boiling water and mud, gazing at rainbow-coloured silica terraces, stopping to watch geysers spew forth, climbing down to the mirror cave, where wishes come true, and up to several lookout points.

After my final disappointing call to the Tongariro Crossing people, I decided I could wait no longer and added this trek to my ‘Next Holiday In New Zealand List’. Yes, I have one, and it’s quite long…

Taupo

Orakei Korako

Huka Falls and Craters of the Moon

Rotorua was next on the list. Rotorua is a city nestled in the crater of an extinct volcano. Standing on the viewing platform of the museum, I could see the rim of the crater, resembling hills surrounding the city. Sulphur lingers over the town like a stubborn fart. And it really does smell like everyone in town has been overdoing the beans. I can think of a few folk who would blend in well in Rotorua…

Geological forces usually resident deep beneath do their thing on the earth’s surface around Rotorua; spouting and gurgling heat, steam and gas. It’s been a tourist destination for many years, wealthy Victorian tourists being drawn by the curative properties of the thermal springs and the magnificence of the pink and white terraces. Sadly, the pink and white terraces are no more. They were destroyed during the eruption of Mount Taranaki in the 1880s. The pictures of these terraces look spectacular. If they had still been there, you would have had a gushing blog to read…

I indulged in a massage or two, took a dip in the hot mineral pools, visited museums, thermal villages and went along to a Maori concert, which was excellent. Yes, it was very touristy and hordes of people were there, but it was hugely enjoyable and I learned a lot more about the Maori and their interesting, poetic culture.

Unusually, I’ve written about three places in one blog; over a week’s worth of travelling. It just feels like the right thing to do. Wellington, Taupo and Rotorua are nice places, but they didn’t really grab me. I didn’t feel their magic. It didn’t help that I was driving a bucket of a rental car between Wellington and Rotorua (when I finally called time and asked for a swap) and managed to put my back out in the process.

So with a sore back, cancelled walks and places that were nice but not joyful, South Island was seriously kicking North Island’s butt.

Until I arrived in Northland…

Rotorua